A Little Background On Kinsale

So we took a look at our Moriarty relatives from the Sneem area. I guess the next step is to take a look at our Keohane relatives from the Kinsale area in County Cork. 

Let's take a look back at what this area was like in 1837 in Lewis' Topograghical Dictionary of Ireland. 


"KINSALE, or KINGSALE, a sea-port, borough (self governing settlement,) and market-town, in the barony of KINSALE, county of CORK, and province of MUNSTER, 14 miles (S.) from Cork, and 140 (S. W.) from Dublin; containing 7823 inhabitants, of which number, 6897 are in the town. "

Kinsale is in the Province of Munster - as is Sneem, County Kerry where our Moriarty relatives lived.

Kinsale is in County Cork

The town of Kinsale is in the barony of Kinsale - located on the lower right. Notice also the baronies of Kinalea - just above Kinsale - where some of our relatives also lived - and Courceys.

I think of the counties of Ireland like the American states, and the baronies are like the county government we have here in Massachusetts. 

And as we saw with the Moriartys, it is important to know the county and barony as well as the Poor Law Union and townland when trying to find relatives.

The map shows Kinsale toward the bottom - as well as Inishannon up along the River Bandon, and Cork and Cobh to the northeast.

Kinsale seems like a pretty big place with almost seven thousand residents - that's a lot of people in that town!  The map below shows part of the town of Kinsale.

Lewis goes on to say that Kinsale, "of which, from its very great antiquity, the origin is but imperfectly known, is supposed to have derived its name from the Irish "Cean Taile," signifying "the headland in the sea," in allusion to the promontory called the Old Head, or from "Ciun Saila," a "smooth sea or basin:" it is also in some ancient Irish manuscripts called "Fan-na-Tuabrid," or "the fall of the springs." On the promontory called the Old Head, about 6 miles from the town, was an encampment, supposed, but on very doubtful authority, to have been the residence of some of the ancient kings of Ireland, of which the site is now occupied by the ruins of a castle built in the 12th century by the celebrated De Courcy, who, having married into the family of the De Cogans, the first English grantees, became possessed of a large tract of country now forming the barony of Courcy, adjoining that of Kinsale on the south-west." 

So ….. maybe we are related to ancient Irish kings!?

In 1982 my son Danno and I visited Kinsale. I took these pictures of the Old Head of Kinsale.

"It (Kinsale) appears from a very early period to have been a borough by prescription, as the charter of incorporation granted to the inhabitants by Edw(ard) III., in the 7th (year) of his reign (about 1334), states in its preamble that the town 'was surrounded by Irish enemies and English rebels, and that the burgesses had always obeyed the king's orders in repelling the same, who had often by sea and land assailed the town, the walls of which had become ruinous and the burgesses unable to repair them.' Power was therefore granted to choose a 'sovereign,' to collect certain customs for repairing the walls, and to treat separately with or make war upon the Irish enemies."

Edward III

Interesting that the native Irish were the enemy in their own land in the 1300s and even further back. This was over a hundred years before Christopher Columbus ever made his trip to the New World! And the King of England gave this fortified town permission to choose a person to collect taxes to repair the town walls to keep out those Irish!

" John de Courcy having become lord of Kinsale and also of the adjoining castle of Ringrone, was succeeded in his estates by his grandson Milo, who near the latter place defeated Florence McCarty More and a large party of his followers, and drove them into the river Bandon, where many of them were drowned. "

© Copyright Mike Searle and licensed for reuse under thisCreative Commons Licence

A four storey fragment of a de Courcy tower still stands overlooking the mouth of the Bandon river just south of Kinsale.

  
The McCarthy Mor was one of the ancient Irish dynasties in Munster. 

"In 1380, the French and Spanish fleets were pursued by the English into this haven, where an engagement took place in which the former were defeated with great loss, many of their ships taken, and 20 English vessels which they had made prizes, recaptured. In the following year the inhabitants received a charter from Richard II., granting to the "Provost" and Commonalty, in consideration of the insult they had received from the Spanish and Irish enemies and the English rebels, the small customs of the port, at a yearly rent of ten marks, the surplus to be laid out in completing the walls of the town." 

"Richard II King of England" by English: Anonymous - http://www.archist.com.au/assets/images/Richard_II.jpg. Licensed under Public domain via Wikimedia Commons - http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Richard_II_King_of_England.jpg#mediaviewer/File:Richard_II_King_of_England.jpg

Shakespeare wrote about Richard II but didn't mention that Richard granted a charter to Kinsale allowing Kinsale to keep the customs collected in the port and to use them to repair the walls to keep out the Irish.

But Kinsale is most famous for what happened here in 1601.

"In 1601, a Spanish fleet bringing assistance to the Irish insurgents entered the harbour and landed its troops, on the 23rd of September. Immediately after the departure of the fleet, these forces, under the command of Don Juan D'Aquila, took possession of the town, which on their landing had been abandoned by the garrison, consisting at that time of only one company. The English army advanced on the 17th of October to the hill of Knock-Robbin, within a mile of the town, and commenced that memorable siege which has rendered this place so celebrated in the Irish annals. The castle of Rincurran, situated on the river, having been seized by the enemy as an advantageous post for annoying the English shipping, after sustaining for some days a severe cannonade, surrendered to the Lord-Deputy Mountjoy. The forces of the English were every day advancing, when, on intelligence that the northern army under O'Nial (Hugh O'Neill leading the Irish army from the north) was in full march to join the Spaniards, it was resolved to divide the royal army, leaving one part under Lord Mountjoy to continue the siege of Kinsale, while the other, under Sir G. Carew, Lord-President of Munster, marched against O'Nial. Sir George, after a harassing and fruitless expedition, was compelled to return to Kinsale. 

Hugh O'Neill, Earl of Tyrone

"In the mean time the English received a reinforcement of 1000 men from England under the Earl of Thomond; 2000 infantry, with some cavalry, were also landed at Waterford, and 2000 infantry with a supply of military stores at Cork. Castle-ni-Park, a fortress on the opposite side of the river, was attacked by the English and compelled to surrender; but on summoning the town they were answered that 'it was held for Christ and the King of Spain, and should be maintained against all their enemies.' 

"The northern army under O'Nial had now encamped within six miles of the town, cutting off all communication with Cork, and was approaching the English lines, when the Lord-Deputy, leaving Sir G. Carew to carry on the siege, marched against the insurgents with 1200 infantry and 400 horse, and routed them with great slaughter. All the Spaniards that had joined the insurgents from Castlehaven were either killed on the spot or taken prisoners; the enemy had on this occasion 1200 killed and 800 wounded, while, on the part of the English, one cornet only and a few privates were wounded. The Spanish commander, Don Juan, mistaking the vollies fired by the royal army in honour of their victory, for signals of the approach of the Irish forces, sallied out from the town to meet them; but perceiving his error, immediately retired, and on the arrival of the English before the gates, entered into terms of capitulation and surrendered the town, just at a time when the King of Spain was preparing to send large reinforcements, and to carry on the war with increased vigor. 

"During the siege and the sickness that followed it, the royal army lost no less than 6000 men; but the fall of Kinsale and the consequent destruction of the Spanish power in Ireland, at this critical juncture, were the means of saving the country (for the English.) On the first landing of the Spaniards, the burgesses delivered to Sir George Carew their charter, seal, mace, and royal standard, to preserve for them in safety; and on their subsequent application to him for their restoration, were told that he considered them as forfeited, but that he would write to the Queen in their favour. He was soon afterwards ordered to restore them to the corporation, on condition that they should, at their own expense, repair the town walls and find labourers to complete the new fortress of Castle-ni-Park, which they undertook to perform."

They say the old Gaelic way of life ended with defeat of the Irish by the English in the Battle of Kinsale. Makes me wonder if any of our relatives fought against the English with the Spanish? Aunt Nellie Keohane said that the Pierces were originally Protestant - maybe they were English settlers? Did they fight with the English? I suppose we will never know. 

"The town is pleasantly and advantageously situated near the mouth of the river Bandon, anciently called the Glaslin or Glasson, which here forms a capacious and secure harbour. The streets rise in a singular and irregular manner on the acclivity of an eminence called Compass Hill, the houses ranging tier above tier, most of them on sites excavated in the solid rock, or placed on the level of some projecting crag; the descent is dangerously steep, and they are inaccessible to carriages except from the summit of the hill, or from the main street, which takes an irregular course along the shore of the harbour. The total number of houses, of which many are well built and of handsome appearance, including the village of Scilly, was, in 1831, 1266. 

"The town is indifferently paved, but amply supplied with good water from numerous springs. It is much frequented during the season for sea-bathing, and several villas and handsome cottages have been built in the village of Scilly and in the Cove, for the accommodation of visiters. It is in contemplation to build a bridge across the ferry on the river, from the town to Courcy's territory; and a new line of road to Bandon has been completed as far as Whitecastle, within two miles of this place. 

"The environs embrace some fine views of the sea, the harbour, and the estuaries which indent the adjacent country; the banks of the river are embellished with thriving plantations and with several gentlemen's seats; and around the summit of Compass Hill is a pleasant walk, commanding a splendid view of the harbour and the windings of the Bandon. On the east of the town is Charles Fort, commanded by a governor and fort-major, and containing barracks for 16 officers and 332 non-commissioned officers and privates." 

Compass Hill is shown on the above map of Kinsale on the bottom left.

"There are two small libraries, supported by proprietaries of £5 shareholders and annual subscribers; a regatta is held in July or August, which is well attended, and boat races take place occasionally. A handsome suite of assembly-rooms has recently been built, and on the ground floor of the same building is a reading and newsroom. 

"The trade of the port, from its proximity to that of Cork, is but inconsiderable in proportion to its local advantages; it consists chiefly in the export of agricultural produce, and the import of timber from British America, and coal, iron, and salt from England and Wales. The number of vessels that entered inwards from foreign parts, during the year 1835, was five, of the aggregate burden of 1062 tons, and one only cleared outwards with passengers; in the coasting trade, during the same year, 62 vessels, of the aggregate burden of 1.2,753 tons, entered inwards, and 34, of the aggregate burden of 5201 tons, cleared outwards. "

Interesting that in 1835, two years before this report was written, only 5 foreign ships enter Kinsale Harbor and only one ship left the port with passengers. Most of the activity was coastal trade. Interesting since Cork itself was such a major port.

"The staple trade is the fishery, in which 87 small vessels or large boats, called hookers, of the aggregate burden of 1300 tons, are constantly employed, exclusively of several smaller boats. Sprats and herrings are taken in seins within the harbour and bay, as far as the Old Head; haddock, mackarel, turbot, gurnet, cod, ling, hake, and larger fish in the open sea; and salmon in almost every part of the river. The value of the fishery is estimated, on an average, at £30,000 per ann.; the Kinsale fishermen have long been noted for the goodness of their boats and their excellent seamanship: their services in supplying the markets of Cork and other neighbouring towns, and their skill as pilots, procured for them exemption from impressment during the last war." 

Kinsale Hooker
 http://images.travelpod.com/tripwow/photos/ta-00aa-3824-fd4b/a-hooker-an-irish-fishing-boat-galway-ireland+1152_12864683948-tpfil02aw-3547.jpg

This was described as a cod seine boat. 

http://www.therooms.ca/ic_sites/fisheries/images/e43-34.jpg

"The harbour consists of the circling reach of the river and a broad inlet which separates the town from the village of Scilly; and though much less extensive than that of Cork, is deep, secure, and compact, being completely land-locked by lofty hills. It is defended by Charles Fort, nearly abreast of which is a bar having only 12 feet of water at low spring tides. The entrance is marked by two lofty lights, one in Charles Fort for the use of the harbour, a small fixed light, elevated 98 feet above high water mark and visible at the distance of 6 nautical miles; and the other on the Old Head, consisting of 27 lamps having an elevation of 294 feet above the level of the sea at high water, and displaying a bright fixed light visible at a distance of 23 nautical miles. 

"Vessels arriving at low water and drawing more than 11 feet must wait the rising of the tide before they can proceed across the bar. The most usual anchorage is off the village of Cove, about a cable's length from the shore; but there is water enough for the largest ships anywhere in the channel of the river, which lies close along the eastern shore up to the town. The river Bandon is navigable for vessels of 200 tons to Colliers' quay, 12 miles above the town." 

Kinsale Harbor in 1982

"At Old Head is a coastguard station comprising a force of 8 officers and 63 men, under the superintendence of a resident inspecting commander."

"In the town is a large ale-brewery and malting establishment; and in the neighbourhood are several large flour-mills. The markets are on Wednesday and Saturday; and fairs are held on May 4th, Sept. 4th, and Nov, 21st, for horses, cattle, sheep, pigs, farming utensils, friezes, coarse flannels, and other articles. Two mails from Cork and one from Bandon pass daily through Kinsale. A chief constabulary police force is stationed in the town.

"The charter of incorporation granted by Edward III was confirmed and extended by subsequent sovereigns to the time of Elizabeth ... who granted markets on Wednesday and Friday, and a fair on St. Bartholomew's day and for three days after.  … By the act of George III, the borough and liberties, for the purposes of county taxation, were constituted a distinct barony.

"The town-hall is a spacious and neat building, commodiously adapted to the public business of the corporation, and for holding the courts of record and session. The borough gaol (jail) is also commodious and well adapted to the classification of the prisoners."

"The borough comprises the whole of the parish of Kinsale or St. Multose, and a small portion of the parish of Rincurran. The former contains only 234 acres, principally in demesnes (manors); the scenery is highly interesting and strikingly diversified."

"The church, dedicated to St. Multosia, by whom it is said to have been erected in the 14th century, as the conventual church of a monastery which she had founded, is a spacious and venerable cruciform structure, for the repair and enlargement of which, now in progress (1837,) the Ecclesiastical Commissioners have granted £1361. It contains two handsome monuments of Italian marble; one to various members of the Southwell family, settled here in the reign of Charles I; the other, which is beautifully executed, to the memory of Catharine, relict (widow) of Sir John Perceval, Bart., and of the same family: there is also a handsome monument of white marble to Capt. T. Lawrence and his lady, erected in 1724, with their armorial bearings."

"In the R. C. divisions the parish is the head of a union, comprising also the parishes of Rincurran, Dunderrow, and Teighsasson or Taxax. The chapel is a spacious edifice, erected in 1834 by subscription, and has an altar-piece embellished with paintings of the principal events in the life of Christ; there is a small chapel belonging to the Carmelite friary, also a chapel at Ballinamona."

"There are places of worship for Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists". 

"Nearly 600 children are taught in six public schools, of which the grammar school has an endowment partly by the corporation, and partly by the family of De Clifford, of King's-Weston, in the county of Gloucester, producing a salary of £50 for the master, who has also a large house, playground, and garden given by the Southwell family. A fever hospital and dispensary have been established; an institution called the Gift House, in which eight widows of decayed Protestant tradesmen receive a weekly allowance of two shillings, is supported by the South-well family; and there is an ancient parochial alms-house, containing 16 rooms for superannuated poor, each of whom receives a portion of the weekly contributions at the church."

"Of the town walls, which were destroyed in 1690, three of the gates were remaining till near the close of the last century; Nicholas gate was removed in 1794, Friars gate in 1796, and Cork gate in 1805; a small portion of the last may still be seen on the north side of Cork-street; and in Newman-place may be traced the only portion of the walls now remaining." 

"This place gives the very ancient title of Baron Kingsale to the family of De Courcy, originally created in 1181. His lordship is Premier Baron of Ireland; he has the privilege (granted by King John to De Courcy, Earl of Ulster,) of wearing his hat in the royal presence, which was asserted by the late John, Baron Kingsale, at Dublin castle, before his late Majesty George IV, on his visit to Ireland in Aug. 1821. He has also the privilege of having a cover laid for him at the royal table at coronations, and on all other state occasions."

So that gives us a little history of Kinsale and its part in the end of the Gaelic way of life.