Quick look at Sneem

Samuel Lewis has described Kilcrohane parish to us, but he also writes in 1837 that Sneem is “a maritime village, in the parish of KILCROHANE, barony of DUNKERRON, county of KERRY, and province of MUNSTER, 12 miles (W. S. W.) from Kenmare … The harbour is frequented chiefly by fishing vessels. The village, which is irregularly built, has been lately somewhat improved by the erection of some new houses.”

Sneem pier with the village in the background from the Lawrence Collection in the National Library of Ireland.

“A penny post to Kenmare has been lately established. Petty sessions (court sessions) are held generally once a month; and a constabulary police force (RIC) is stationed here. Fairs are held seven times in the year for general farming stock (cows, sheep, pigs, donkeys), and for flannel and frieze (coarse wool.) ... A dispensary (medical office) has been lately established."

This fair is in Cahir which is a much bigger town than Sneem but it gives us an idea of what a fair was like.

So from Samuel Lewis, we know that in 1837 Sneem had a Church of Ireland and a public school, a Catholic Chapel and a Catholic school, a police barracks, and a new doctor. A road was being built out to Moll’s Gap to meet the Killarney to Kenmare road, and you could mail a letter to Kenmare. Some new houses were recently built. Farming and fishing seem to be major occupations in an area that is mountainous and has extensive bog land.  Fairs are held throughout the year.

Griffith’s Valuation of Sneem Village in the early 1850s provides some interesting information. I’ve included it here although it will be difficult to read. The village of Sneem begins at the bottom on the first page. Remember that it includes: a number that corresponds to the map that accompanied the valuation, names of occupiers and lessors, description of the tenement or rental, the area of land rented, and the value of each. 20 occupiers are listed plus the Roman Catholic Chapel.  I was surprised at how few people  lived in the town until I remembered what Theo Stoakley had said – that Sneem was almost depopulated during Cromwell's time and developed later than Killarney, Kenmare, Tralee. 

There are a few interesting entries in Griffith's.

#4 lists Grand Jury County Kerry paying local landlord James F. Bland 1 pound 10 shillings for the (?) Sessions Court House. I can’t make out the first word – almost looks like “petit” – but the rent is for the building where the petty court sessions are held. These local courts handle charges of drunkeness, destruction of property, assault, tax evasion, poaching. Often the local landlord would be the Justice of the Peace. More serious crimes would go on to a larger court. I wonder if any of our relatives appeared in a Petty Court? For poaching salmon perhaps?

It looks like part of #5 and #6 are missing. I want to say that #5 looks like the Barracks for the Royal Irish Constabulary which would include a building, an office which would be a shed or an outside building and also a yard, and a garden– the land rental is 5 shillings - the barracks look to be worth 5 pounds.

#6 seems to be the Roman Catholic Chapel which is worth 3 pounds and 15 shillings rent. 

The doctor in #15 is paying 5 pounds 10 shillings for a house, yard, garden and dispensary.

The other people listed are renting houses with or without an office, garden, or yard. I wonder what kind of work they did?

Just a quick note. In #10ab James Flaherty is renting a house, office, yard and two gardens from Lawrence Sullivan for 4 pounds 18 shillings/year – 8 shillings of this is for the land - 2 roods and 4 perches  of land.  I wonder if he has a large family or if he sells his produce?

(BTW: 1 perch = 16.5 feet. 40 perches = 1 rood, and 1 rood = ¼ acre.)

And look at #14 - Jeremiah Crowley is listed for walls and yard from our local landlord!! But no payment seems to be included.

 Speaking of the Catholic Chapel, in the mid-1800s, Sneem’s Catholics attended Mass in an old leaking building. The 3^rd Earl of Dunraven had a family seat in Adare Manor in Limerick. The Earl of Dunraven rented Garnish Island off the coast of Sneem from the Blands. According to Christopher Fitz-simon in “the Most Beautiful Villages of Ireland,” the second Earl of Dunraven improved the village of Adare and “was responsible in 1807 for the restoration of the fourteenth-century Augustinian Priory as a place of worship for the Church of Ireland. Three years later he saw to the rebuilding of the derelict thirteenth-century Trinitarian Priory, for use as a Roman Catholic parish church.

Adare Manor In Limerick - former home of the Earls of Dunraven - now a luxury hotel.

“The second Earl also laid out the two groups of thatched cottages which give Adare its distinctive appearance, and which are the principal reason for the very large tourist trade that the village enjoys.” We’ve all driven through Adare and passed by the thatched cottages. But how many of us knew of Adare's connection to Sneem! “It is the trim thatched cottages which give Adare its special resonance and romance … The 2^nd Earl and Countess of Dunraven were responsible for improving the village, and thus the lives of their tenants, in the early 19^th century. The domestic buildings which they introduced derive from a style found in the west of England.” Downton Abbey in Ireland! Sounds like the Dunravens were good landlords.

Cottage in Adare village - photo from the Lawrence Colection

Anyway, back to our story. The Earl of Dunraven rented Garnish Island off the coast of Sneem from the Blands. The 3^rd Earl was a convert to the Catholic religion and would come to Sneem to Mass when he was in the area. 

Cottage on Garnish Island - is this where the Earl stayed? Photo from the Lawrence Collection.

When he saw the condition of the Church, he donated funds to build a new chapel. Mr. Bland, the local landlord, donated the land – which is interesting because he was collecting rent from the old church according to Griffith’s. In 1861 demolition of this old Church began. Dr. Moriarty, Bishop of Kerry, laid the foundation stone of Sneem Chapel on 3 September 1863. While the building was going on, Mass was celebrated in the South Square – a makeshift tent was erected to cover the priest and the altar – the parishioners stood out in the open no matter what the weather. The Church of St. Michael was finished in 1865. This is the Church where my relatives were baptized, married, and buried – on Sundays did they walk the 6 or 7 miles into Sneem from Loughane to attend Mass – even in bad weather? 

Sneem Chapel from the Lawrence collection.

Just a footnote, Adare Manor was sold in 1982, and it is now a first class luxury hotel. I happened to be in Sneem when the present Earl of Dunraven and his family attended Mass in St. Michael’s Church to rededicate it. Now Reverend Murphy, the parish priest, is trying to raise a million euro to restore the church.

One last note about Sneem. The book “Landowners in Ireland 1876” tells us a little about the local landlords. Page 141 lists Francis C. Bland of Derriquin Castle, Sneem owning 25,576 acres, 1 rod, 20 perch worth 1862 pounds.

Meanwhile, Daniel O’Connell of Derrynane Abbey of Cahirciveen (the Liberator’s son) owns 17,394 acres – 3 rods – 25 perches for a value of 1626 pounds 15 shilling.  

So let's get to the Moriartys!